How was Winter International Lolita Day 2010 for all of you, my dear friends? I had a wonderful, delicious day, but that is for another post. Right now, I come bearing gifts - a tutorial on a ribbon bustle skirt! I worked hard to finish it this week and hope you all like it!
I love the print on this fabric!
Versatility is a big point for me. It is one of the main aims for Carousel Cafe, so this 4-ribbon bustle skirt is a great design! It can be worn in varying styles with 0-4 of the bustles in action.
1)Cut your skirt panels into 4. You will be using the seams as the casing for the ribbons. If you will be adding a ruffle on the bottom, add them now to each individual panel and treat them as a panel now
2) Sew the panels together, but use a wider seam allowance. I used 5/8". Press them open.
3) Stitch down the seam allowances. This creates little tubes on either side of your seams.
4) Take a length of your ribbon or cording that is two times the length of your skirt plus about 6" extra and thread it from the bottom of one tube through to the top. Attaching a safety pin or bobby pin to the front of the ribbon to help it thread more easily.
5) Then turn around and thread it from the top down the other side. Having the ribbon folded like this makes it sturdier than using two separate ribbons because there is no way for the ribbon to detach from the waistband and pull out the bottom. Tie a knot at the ends of the ribbons to prevent them from getting pulled up into the channels on accident. Finish the ends by hand (I turn and stitch the raw edges).
6) Because this skirt has 4 seams already, a zip opening would be unattractive so we will make it a full elastic waist. Cut your waistband WxL
W should be 2x your elastic width plus seam allowance
L should be larger than your hip measure so you can get the skirt on and off!
Press up your seam allowances, and then press your waistband in half lengthwise.
7) Sew your waistband into a circle and press open your seam allowance.
8) Re-press your seam allowance and fold it in half again.
9) Gather your skirt to one seam allowance of your waistband if it is smaller than your skirt.
10) Stitch, then fold the waistband in half and either top-stitch or stitch in the ditch. For this tutorial, I showed the stitch in the ditch method, but a clean, straight top-stitch gives a wonderful finish, too. Remember to leave an opening in the waistband for your elastic!
From the outside. The stitching is invisible because you stitch right on top of the stitching line that attaches the waistband to the skirt.
From the inside. I lightened the photo to show that the stitching has to catch the seam allowance on the inside
11) Thread your elastic through the waistband, sew the elastic ends together, and sew the rest of the waistband shut. This next step is optional, but it is nice for keeping the elastic from twisting. Stretch your waistband so the fabric is flat, and stitch a line down the middle all the way around the waistline. No in-progress photos because it takes two hands to stretch the waistband out :P
This skirt can be worn like a regular skirt with none of the ribbons tied as seen at the beginning of this post. Here are some more ways to wear it with an underskirt (or perhaps a cage skirt for ero style?)
This is one of my favorite ways to wear this type of skirt. Pull up only slightly on one ribbon in the front, revealing a layer or two of ruffle. Pull up all the way on the other front ribbon, revealing all the layers of ruffles on the inside.
Double Bustle! This can be done in the front, back, or both sides of the skirt! Just pull up your gathers as far as possible on all your ribbons and tie them in a pretty bow
This is a more subdued version of a bustle and I think it looks wonderful when all four ribbons are used. Pull up slightly and tie a small bow, revealing a layer or two of your underskirt. It creates a slight scalloped look and adds more visual interest to the hem.
As always, please do not hesitate to ask more clarification if there is any point you do not understand! I am going to offer this skirt at a discount (for the ugly insides) on my ArtFire shop soon, so keep an eye out if you are interested! Underskirt not included ;) But they are available for a decent price on TaoBao shops.
P.S. How do you like my Photoshop skills? ^^;