Wednesday, November 6, 2013

EGLB Sewing Tutorial: Mille Fleur & Mille Noir Mini Fur Cape

A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I said that I would make sewing tutorials for the English Gothic and Lolita Bibles that I own because the printed directions are really vague.

Well, after my first foray into the Kana Knickerbockers pattern, which didn't match up, I became quite disheartened and gave up for a while. Today I gave it another go with a simpler pattern from the fourth EGLB:
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The majority of the patterns in this volume are knitted patterns (I am awful at knitting... crochet is more my thing!) but the Mille Fleur & Mille Noir pattern for a Mini Cape is rated one star, so it should be a good one to start with!

First of all, you need to copy the pattern pieces. There are only two, but they are both labeled "Fabric x1" so you will see in the photos I made a mistake.

*45cm X 80cm fur fabric
*45cm X 80cm lining
*130cm of 36mm ribbon
*80cm of 15mm wide stabilizing tape (fusible)

NOTE: I did not use stabilizing tape!

I originally wanted to copy the printed directions and add my own notes, but the given instructions are such rubbish that it would make no sense, so I wrote my own!

Time: 4 hours (it did not take me four hours)

1) Cut your fabric. The larger piece is the fur fabric, and the crescent shape is the lining. They are both labeled "fabric" so I thought the cape would have a collar and cut both in fur!
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The white pieces are the pattern pieces.
Make sure to notch where noted so you can match up your pieces later!
Also cut your ribbon in half lengthwise so you have two ribbons.

2)Finish the ends of your ribbons so they don't unravel. Roll the end twice to encase the raw edge and then stitch like so:
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Finish just one end on each because the other end will be sewn into the cape, and finishing the ends would create a bulge.

3)Match the notches on the curved edge of the two pattern pieces, right sides together (that is, the furry side facing the right side of your lining). Pin your ribbon ends to the fur with the long tails hidden between the two layers of fabric. Stitch up until the notches at the neckline where the pattern had a squiggly line (means it needs to be gathered).
Turn your cape right-side out.
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Trim or shave the fur from the seam allowances to reduce bulk!

4)Hand-sew the neckline, matching up the center of both pieces. The fur piece will fold down to meet the lining piece because it is larger. This allows a clean-look when the cape is worn so the lining doesn't show.
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That's it! You're done!
Here is what it looks like being modeled by my dress form, Caroline:
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I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial. If there are any questions or if anything is unclear, please leave me a comment to let me know!