Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Sparkle Stitches~Gathering

Gathering is an essential skill in Lolita fashion, and is also required for the next sewing tutorial so I am double-posting ;D Two tutorials in a row!
LO娘想做衣服一定要學會抽細折!

If you are already familiar with gathering, just skip to the next post for the skirt tutorial.

Gathering is very simple, albeit a little time-consuming.
抽細折很簡單,但蠻費時間的。

Step One:
Lengthen the stitch length on your machine to the longest stitch
將縫衣機的針跡長度調到最長
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Step Two:
Stitch WITHIN your seam allowance, and do NOT backtack at either end. Usually 1/4" from the raw edge is a good distance. Do two rows of stitching for smoother gathers. High-end clothiers will even do 3 rows of gathering stitches; one in the seam allowance, one on the stitching line, and one even lower than the stitching line which then has to be ripped out. No wonder high-end clothes cost so much...
在縫分內縫一條線。 頭尾不要打結。 離布邊1/4"(2分)就夠。 縫兩條線能抽的比較潠。
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Step Three:
Separate out your top thread and bobbin thread. Here, I have used black for my bobbin thread to show the difference
上下線分開。 我的下線用了黑色。
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Step Four:
Pull on the bobbin thread only and slide the fabric along the thread. It will bunch up and form gathers. Gather it to your desired length and pin in place
卿卿的一邊拉下線一邊將布料網下滑。抽到想要的長度後用針固定住
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It may take some practice, but after a few tries it becomes pretty easy. Just be careful not to pull to hard or fast because it is very frustrating to have a thread break in the middle of gathering! Which is another reason 2 rows of stitching is nice ;) If all else fails, make elastic-waist skirts just like the Ribbon Bustle Skirt ;D
多練習後會比較簡單! 小心別拉太快或太用力。 抽到一半緞線會很想抓狂喔!